“四美斋”又名“南果酱园”。初,由归德城内的杨永礼伙同朋友四人集股经营,建于民国七年(1918年),约三年左右,其他三股退出商号独归杨家。因其在朱集车站开业早,酱菜果品独具特色而久负盛名。
酱园坐落在北站路中段路北(即现胜利楼旅行社处),前有门面房三间,后又作坊等二十余间,东西两侧各有作坊七间,仅研制酱菜的大缸近四百条,果师酱工及学徒常年多达十四、五个。“四美斋”甜咸两作(即酱菜、点心两个作坊),南北口味,品种齐全。
酱菜有“五香干大头”、“酱瓜”、“包瓜酱菜”、“酱黄瓜”、“酱苔子”等几十种,其中尤以“五香干大头”和“包瓜酱菜”最为突出。五香干大头菜系选用本地产的辣菜疙瘩,从进料、削头、破块到腌制,需经四个多月的时间。就腌制期来说,一遍工序就得头天腌,后天翻,三遍澄卤去杂质,这样连续三、四次;而后倒出摊晒,七成干后收回,再放入缸内,兑盐水,加酱色,接连翻缸数次,等菜还原后,再行摊晒。共反复三、四遍后,六、七成干时用手握无硬心,收回空缸,层层踩实装满缸,上用蒲包封严;等潮过来后,再取出,用八大味粉拌匀,手工揉搓松软后,最后一次装缸填实压满;蒲包封盖二十天左右,即可出售应市。成品五香干大头,体型美观,有光发亮,呈棕紫色。松软可口,醇香味浓,咀嚼之余,后味无穷,向为群众喜食。包瓜酱菜以本地土特产包瓜,又名女瓜作皮,内用黄胡萝卜、苔子、黄瓜、鹿角菜、包瓜、姜、陈皮等切丝和花生仁、杏仁、核桃仁做馅,用酱醅制而成。成品酱包瓜,呈金黄色,透亮有光泽,酱味浓、甜咸适度。其它酱菜如:酱瓜、酱黄瓜、酱苔子等也各有特色。
“四美斋”之酱菜除精选细作外,过去酱菜出缸后全用荷叶包裹装入特制的小竹篓中出售。旧时常被购之为馈亲、省友的赠品。五香干大头和酱包瓜远销江苏、安徽、湖北各地。“四美斋”在1956年公私合营后装入国营酱菜厂。
Simeizhai Pickles
Simeizhai, also called Nanguo Pickle Shop, enjoys a good fame for its particular pickle products for a long time. It has two workshops making sweet and salt product separately so that it contains almost all snacks from north to south. Pickles made by Simeizhai are always regarded as gifts for relatives and friends from ancient times.
It has tens of pickles like spiced big pickle lumps, pickled cucumbers, pickled muskmelon, etc, among which spiced big pickle lumps and pickled muskmelon are the most outstanding. These two kinds of pickles are sold to as far as Jiangsu, Anhui, Hubei and many other provinces. The former is made by local big pickle lumps in more than 4 months. Finished products are in nice shape and brown-purple color, soft, with tense flavor and lasting-long residual taste. While the latter chooses local specialty muskmelon as skin and carrot, cucumber, pelvetia silquosa,ginger, peanut kernels, almonds, semen juglandis and other condiments as stuffing, then brew them with sauce. Finished products are in golden color, looking bright and glossy and tasting not too sweet nor too salt. Besides, other pickle products all have various separate features.